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Glendale Heights, Ill. —
Introducing true Texas barbecue to the suburbs are Brian Abrams and Dave Huff, who recently opened Hickory River Smokehouse in Glendale Heights. Abrams was born in Houston, and the two have been friends since college days in Illinois. Both are fanatical about the style of barbecue identified with Texas.
“It’s the best,” Abrams says. “It ain’t braggin’, if it’s true,” adds the Bloomingdale resident with telltale drawl. “We’re going to stay true to our format; this is Texas barbecue — no burgers, wings, fish.”
The restaurant has its own hickory-wood smokehouse, where beef brisket and pork shoulder for pulled pork are smoked at low heat for 13 to 14 hours, explains Huff, calling it the “low-and-slow” method. Ribs, chicken and other meats are smoked from three to four hours, with dry rub for flavoring.
You can purchase bottles of the mild and hot barbecue sauces, but not yet the third option: a blend of both offered folks dining at the restaurant. It’s the favorite of Huff, who recommends ordering sauce on the side to suit personal preference.
When it comes to Texas barbecue, “It’s all about the meat and not the sauce,” explains Tony Copley of Wheaton, back for lunch with his wife, Vera. He should know, as a certified barbecue judge who travels the country judging competitions as a hobby.
He says he’s impressed by the quality of the meat, and the attention paid to proper preparation at Hickory River.
“The ribs here are very good … the brisket is some of the best I’ve had,” he says. “The meat is good enough … without sauce … (but) the variety of sauces complements the meat very well.”
Like Huff, he’s a fan of the blended sauce option. His wife notes the vinegar-based cole slaw is also pure Texas.
Barbecue aroma greets people at the door of the casual, family restaurant with its red-checked, plastic tablecloths to withstand errant sauce. The spacious room, with well-spaced booths and tables, boasts a high ceiling that proved a pleasant surprise when Abrams and Huff remodeled the former Bakers Square.
“We were kind of lucky,” Huff says. “Once we took (out) the low-hanging ceiling, we found all the wood (beams) that make it look like a Texas joint.”
Customers order at the counter, and can watch their food being prepared. Hickory River Smokehouse, which serves beer and wine, has a drive-through, and does catering. Abrams and Huff hold the rights to expanding the franchise operation to other Chicago suburbs. Their slowly smoked meats already picked up a positive television review on ABC7.
To counter a typically slow weeknight, the restaurant offers Tuesday Dollar Night from 5 to 9 p.m. each week.
“It’s a buck a rib and a buck a mini pulled-pork sandwich and $2 domestics,” Huff says. “Tuesday nights are one of our busiest.”
Introducing true Texas barbecue to the suburbs are Brian Abrams and Dave Huff, who recently opened Hickory River Smokehouse in Glendale Heights. Abrams was born in Houston, and the two have been friends since college days in Illinois. Both are fanatical about the style of barbecue identified with Texas.
“It’s the best,” Abrams says. “It ain’t braggin’, if it’s true,” adds the Bloomingdale resident with telltale drawl. “We’re going to stay true to our format; this is Texas barbecue — no burgers, wings, fish.”
The restaurant has its own hickory-wood smokehouse, where beef brisket and pork shoulder for pulled pork are smoked at low heat for 13 to 14 hours, explains Huff, calling it the “low-and-slow” method. Ribs, chicken and other meats are smoked from three to four hours, with dry rub for flavoring.
You can purchase bottles of the mild and hot barbecue sauces, but not yet the third option: a blend of both offered folks dining at the restaurant. It’s the favorite of Huff, who recommends ordering sauce on the side to suit personal preference.
When it comes to Texas barbecue, “It’s all about the meat and not the sauce,” explains Tony Copley of Wheaton, back for lunch with his wife, Vera. He should know, as a certified barbecue judge who travels the country judging competitions as a hobby.
He says he’s impressed by the quality of the meat, and the attention paid to proper preparation at Hickory River.
“The ribs here are very good … the brisket is some of the best I’ve had,” he says. “The meat is good enough … without sauce … (but) the variety of sauces complements the meat very well.”
Like Huff, he’s a fan of the blended sauce option. His wife notes the vinegar-based cole slaw is also pure Texas.
Barbecue aroma greets people at the door of the casual, family restaurant with its red-checked, plastic tablecloths to withstand errant sauce. The spacious room, with well-spaced booths and tables, boasts a high ceiling that proved a pleasant surprise when Abrams and Huff remodeled the former Bakers Square.
“We were kind of lucky,” Huff says. “Once we took (out) the low-hanging ceiling, we found all the wood (beams) that make it look like a Texas joint.”
Customers order at the counter, and can watch their food being prepared. Hickory River Smokehouse, which serves beer and wine, has a drive-through, and does catering. Abrams and Huff hold the rights to expanding the franchise operation to other Chicago suburbs. Their slowly smoked meats already picked up a positive television review on ABC7.
To counter a typically slow weeknight, the restaurant offers Tuesday Dollar Night from 5 to 9 p.m. each week.
“It’s a buck a rib and a buck a mini pulled-pork sandwich and $2 domestics,” Huff says. “Tuesday nights are one of our busiest.”
